This is one of the most commonly asked questions and the answer depends upon several factors, the most important probably being -- what is making it shady? If it is a large tree, or a hedge then the soil is also likely to be quite dry, as the larger plants will be taking most of the available moisture. If it is sheltered under the eaves of a building so that it receives no natural rainfall, the problem is more difficult unless one is prepared to irrigate. Several low growing plants will actually do quite well in this most difficult of garden conditions – dry shade, but most will take longer to establish and require more upfront care for a couple of seasons until they can be left to cope on their own.

Suggest the following to your customers:
i. Galium odoratum (Sweet Woodruff): bright green foliage borne in whorls around the stems. Small white flowers in early spring. Once established can spread quite rapidly. Height: 3” to 4” (8cm to 10 cm)
ii. Epimedium spp. (Bishops hat, Fairy wings, Barrenwort etc.): Slow to establish and slow to spread but a reliable performer in difficult conditions. Light airy foliage and lovely flowers in early spring. Height: 8” to 24” (20cm to 60 cm) depending upon species and cultivar.
iii. Asarum canadense (Wild Ginger, Canadian Ginger): Large kidney shaped leaves with a matt appearance. Great for naturalizing.
iv. Ferns generally prefer a more moist and shady location but those in the genus Dryopteris (Male ferns) are more tolerant of dryer sites.
v. Many early spring flowering bulbs (Crocus, Scilla, Galanthus) can be planted among the above-mentioned ground covers if the shade is produced by deciduous trees. As the underground bulbs are replenished for next year’s blooms through the process of photosynthesis, the foliage of bulb flowers must be exposed to light and then left to wither and die naturally – no tying, bunching or braiding of leaves!! In many cases the bulbs will have flowered and their leaves withered before the trees become fully foliated.